This is a tough choice, but I suggest the Mercedes-Benz C9 LM on Mugello.

Sounds OK for me Al.

Shall we go ahead with this folks as no one else has come forward so far

I didn't even realise that the Mercedes is an 80s racing car with over 700 bhp and a weighting about 900 kg. I've got to admit, it's difficult to drive. From the few laps I drove, half ended up out of the track...

Is my wheel broke?? this car is fast but doesn't seem to have much of a lock and only wants to go straight. Cant get a lap time in yet as I keep going off track.

Race car steering wheels do have a small turning limit. I don't think the Mercedes is any different than the other cars in the way it steers. It's really unstable, but I felt it was more tail-happy than understeery. Are you sure the steering lock is set to whatever your racing wheel's (Driving Force GT?) limit happens to be? Check your Logitech Profiler and the in-game options to see if it's set up correctly. The DFGT, G25 and G27 have the lock at 900°.

Even if the car you're driving has a steering lock at 180°, you should still set the limit to your wheel's actual limit. This means that the in-game wheel on the screen turns 1:1 in the way you turn your real wheel.

Al,

Thank you. I had the Logitech profiler set up completey different to ingame. I think it was 299 in the profiler and 208 in the game. Adjusted both to 900 and wow what a difference

No problem! The next thing you may want to check is the amount of force feedback you're using, both in the Logitech Profiler and in-game. Turn on the Pedals app in while in a race. From left to right it should have four bars representing the amount of pressure given to the clutch, brake and gas pedals, and the last one is FFB. If the force feedback graph goes all the way up and turns red, it means it's clipping and you're not missing some information that's coming through the wheel. Reduce the amount of gain a little (mine is at about 90% I think) to the point where it doesn't clip anymore and driving should feel a bit better.

You may also want to reduce all of the in-game 'effects' to zero. This means the slip, road and kerb effects. They are artificial FFb effects and at least the kerb effects made my wheel rattle very loudly, adding nothing but annoyance to playing.

Thanks Al feeling better all the time. Don't really understand what clipping is but followed your instructions and does feel good. in the profiler I have overall effects strength set at 90% with the gain ingame set at 90%. The bar is still occaisionally going red but very infrequently. Have turned all the other effects down to zero as you suggested. other advanced settings in game I have which am not sure are good or bad, think I got some from AC forums.
on Left:
Filter 10%
Minimum force 5%
On Right:
Gamma 1.51
Filter 0.14
Speed Sensitivity 0.31
Brake Gamma 2.4

Another way to go is to uncheck everything in the Global Device Settings accept for the last box which is Allow Game To Adjust Settings. This will automatically adjust the wheel to each car. I also leave the wheel at defaults in the profiler. I just assign the buttons in the game settings and I have never had a problem with any racing game I play.